HAIR COLOR TEST

Which Section Does Your Natural Hair Color Fall Into?


It may surprise you to see that hair color can be arranged in the same harmonic sequence of warm, cool and balanced colors. This orderly progression of hair-color demonstrates the underlying consistent order of human coloring. 

This test is simple and direct.  Hair colors are easier to see than skintone colors, so we begin etermining where your hair color falls on the oval hair chart. Your hair color is the biggest clue because we know it is the exact opposite undertone color from your skintone color. Identifying where your hair color falls on the hair chart gives you a visible primary basic color upon which to build your wardrobe.



Red, blonde and black hair categories are obvious and easy to spot. However, brown hair has to e looked at more closely — near the roots where the color has not been lightened or damaged by sunlight or permanents. This is the category that fools people and is responsible for most of the mistakes in color analysis. There is a BIG difference between ash or "blued" brown hair and warm "yellowed" brown hair:





If you are not sure, on the following two lists find a color that corresponds to your natural hair color. The colors that are marked with asterisks ( * ) are balanced colors and therefore are more difficult to place, but there is helpful information as you read further.

COOL HAIR COLORS    
 WARM HAIR COLORS 

 

stark white
blue gray
platinum
off white
blonde
pale yellow *
flaxen *
ash blonde
honey blonde *
pearl gray
gray
light taupe
champagne *
dishwater blonde
mousy
ash brown
gray brown
dark ash brown
charcoal
salt and pepper
steel gray
dark brown *
charcoal brown
blue black
black
yellow gray
cream *
cornsilk yellow *
golden blonde
warm blonde
corn yellow
medium sand *
camel
beige
golden chestnut
warm beige
gold
strawberry blonde
medium brown *
rust
copper
redhead
chestnut brown
golden brown
wine
auburn
dark wine
red brown
dark auburn
dark warm brown * 

Your hair is the "shortcut" way of testing for your colors and will give you a quick idea of nature's plans for your color scheme.  And it is easy to see......except:

  • Except when your hair is an in-between color; these hair colors are marked with an asterisk because they are balanced and can be coaxed into appearing more warm or more cool by the Law of Attraction
  • Or when the hair has been sun-bleached
  • Or has become lightened because of permanents
  • Or is very fine, therefore loosing color easily

Under these circumstances the hair should be more carefully examined for new hair close to the scalp. When color is removed from hair (for whatever reason), the hair pigment colors blue melanin, red hemoglobin and yellow carotenoid lift out in exactly that order: 

  • the darkest color, blue, lifts out first which leaves the hair "redder" looking
  • the next color to lift is red which leaves a "brassy" yellow
  • then yellow lifts out leaving platinum as the very least and last "no color"

 

Interesting Note:  In Nature, as the black sky begins to lighten, blue is the first color to appear when dawn begins; as the white light of noon begins to darken toward evening, yellow is the first color to appear. The color red is what warms the light in mid-morning and mid-evening; again we see red sitting in a balanced position between the two extremes of cool blue and warm yellow.



If  you have a problem determining whether your hair is warm or cool in color, the following information will be helpful. Think
of hair color families in terms of the three Primary Colors, because all hair colors are derived from three of the four pigments of nature: melanin, hemoglobin and carotenoid. Chlorophyll is in plants, but the other three pigments make up the coloring of our hair, skin and eyes.
    


 


RED     Hair Family
              having the properties of adding medium value and                                                                warmth.

BLU  Hair Family
              having the properties of adding darkness and coolness. 

YELLOW  Hair Family
            having the properties of adding lightness and                                                                       brightness.

  
                                                  
  RED HAIR FAMILY 

  

In hair color, it is the degree of red pigment showing that makes hair color warm. All hair colors carry some red tones, but if the hair has natural orangey-red tones then it is a warm color indicator; it suggests that warm colors are needed in the wardrobe to accentuate and add warmth to the person's colors.

S
pecial Note Regarding Body Hair:  Because blue pigment lifts from the hair so readily, the emerging red often results in incorrect conclusions regarding the amount of warmth required in a person's color scheme. This should be carefully studied. One sure-fire method of double-checking to see if red is naturally present in the hair, is to compare the color with body hair. If the pubic hair is redder than the hair on your head, then you know that your colors can also be warmed; if it is lighter than the hair on your head, then you know that your colors can extend into a lighter range; if it is darker than the hair on your head, your color range will include darker shades. This always holds true when checked and is an indication of your correct extended color range — darker, lighter, warmer or cooler.

  BLUE HAIR FAMILY   

  

The blue pigment in hair is that which makes it cool or dark. Cartoonists always color the highlights in hair blue when indicating a black-haired person. In light hair, it is the blue color in it that causes the cool platinum or ash-blonde tones otherwise the hair would be brassy looking. Ash-brown hair also has a blue base.

Because dark blue fades out readily from fine hair, sunlight or permanents (leaving the hair warmer in tone,) many people think they have warm-colored hair, when actually their hair color is naturally cool. New hair, next to the scalp, reveals the true hair color and is usually darker than the color on the ends. Even if the hair has not been altered by chemicals, people are often surprised to discover how dark their natural hair color really is. Since hair-color is the basic neutral color in each wardrobe and establishes the degree of contrast needed for balance, it is necessary to evaluate it carefully. The darkest tone of the hair is the most flattering color to tie a person's wardrobe together. 

  OLD COMIC STRIP SHOWING BLUE HIGHOIGHTS IN HAIR REPRESENTING BLACK HAIR

This very old comic book drawing demonstrates how blue is used to suggest dark hair.

It is recommended that you keep your hair color as natural as possible. To stay true to the natural, cool, blue-based family hair color, use an ash-brown rinse to compensate for loss of the dark blue tones. Since blue fades out first, it is necessary to add it back in order to balance the remaining orangey-red warm tones (blue and orange are complementary; green is complementary to red and will re-establish the natural cool base of the hair color.)

People with hair in this "blue" hair family gray into the most beautiful whites, even into startling snowy whites that are so striking on both men and women.

"Mousey", or rather taupe colored hair, grays into glistening crowning highlights. It is in this area that the "dishwater" or mousey-colored hair finally comes into its glory its soft and naturally frosted effect becomes its owner's delight!

                                           
 
YELLOW HAIR FAMILY  

Strawberry blondes are Springs
and have more red and yellow pigments.
                  
       
 

Light Summer blondes have 
more  blue and yellow  pigments. 

 

In the lighter blonde ranges, the least degree of change in hair color can make a vast difference in the overall color scheme.  Keep in mind that yellow pigments brighten as well as lighten.
                       
Because the changes occur in such a subtle range, many women are unsure whether to bring out the warm gold or cool platinum tones in their hair. A common problem with blonde hair is the tendency for it to look too "brassy" or too cool and flat.  Solution: If your Homebase is in the lower half of the oval, then do not let your hair get too brassy looking; If your Homebase is on the top of the oval, then it will be easy for you to have warmer blonde tones in your hair (platinum will pull blue undertones forward in your skintone and not be flattering.)

If you were a towhead as a child, your skintones are on the warm side, no matter how fair you think your skin is. Your Homebase is Summer and you need cool colors

If your hair color is in the yellow, cornsilk, flaxen, honey, sand, light beige or camel range — then it is in-between warm and cool, and your skintone is also more balanced. When your hair is in this balanced category you will have to depend on the skintone and test whether your "Homebase" leans more toward the warm or cool side.

 

Hair color choices can be totally flattering if sound color-theory principles are followed. The basic question is, should a person's hair have warmer red tones added or cooler ash tones? And furthermore, would they look better with streaked or frosted hair or be better in full intense color? The characteristics of your Homebase category tells you exactly what colors and lines are the most flattering! These guidelines work every time because they are based on Universal laws of balance and harmony.


Ask these questions?????

Should my hair be Warmer? Cooler? Lighter? Darker? Full Colored?  Variegated? Streaked? Frosted? 

  Should my
  hair color   be
  warmer?
Yes, if most of your Homebase colors are on top of the ovals in categories  #1 and #2, then encourage or add red, gold or warm hair colors.
  Should my
  hair color   be
  cooler?
Yes, if most of your Homebase colors are on the bottom of the ovals in categories #3 and #4 , the encourage or add ash, platinum or cool hair colors.
  Should my
  hair color   be
  lighter?
Yes, if most of the your Homebase colors are in category #3, then encourage lighter shades and you can add frostings or cool high lighters. 
  Should my 
  hair color  
  be darker?
  Yes, if most of your Homebase colors are in category #4, then emphasize or add darker shades. Anytime there is dark contrast in the coloring, darker hair tones add focus.
  Should my 
  hair color   be
  intense full
  color?
  If most of the best colors are on the left side of the color ranges, then add intense full color. One accent streak is better than streaking or frosting, which would take away the dramatic full color statement.
  Should my 
  hair color  
  be softly      variegated?
If most of the best colors are on the right side of the color ranges, then encourage or add soft muted color or monochromatic variegated colors.
     
  Should my 
  hair color   be
  frosted?
  
 
A cool platinum, bone or soft white frosting is best if your Homebase is #3 or Summer light colors. Monochromatic color schemes are best for this category, so frosting light hair color gives a flattering subtle frost. 
  Should my
  hair color      be
  streaked?
  A warm cream, sand or beige highlights are best if you have a Homebase in #2 or Autumn warm colors. Streaking your hair with lighter highlights will give a warm patterning that is perfect for this category.
   
  What value 
  hair color
  would be
  best?

   
  

Your Homebase determines the value. Inter-season influence will modify colors: Winter influence goes darker; Summer influence goes lighter; Autumn influence goes more medium-dark; and Spring influence goes medium.

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Copyright © 1985 By Irenee Riter All Rights Reserved